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History of Debaufre:
Debaufre Glossary
- Anti Reflection
- A film created by steaming the crystal to eliminate light reflection and to improve legibility.
- Atmosphere (ATM)
Unit of pressure used in watch making to indicate water-resistance.
- Automatic
- Automatic or automatic watches usually refers to those mechanical watches which wind themselves by means of a swinging mass or rotor (which rotates by arm movement) which through a series of gears, winds the mainspring which in turn powers the watch.
- Automatic Winding
- A watch that winds on its own. - A watch whose mainspring is wound by the movements or accelerations of the wearer's arm. On the basis of the principle of terrestrial attraction, a rotor turns and transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism. The system was invented in Switzerland by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th century.
- Bezel
- The bezel is the topmost ring of the watch, surrounding the dial of the watch. A bezel may be fixed or in the case of a diver's watch, rotating. It can either be plain (usually fixed) or can be marked with, for example a 0-60 minute scale in the case of divers' watches. Older rotating bezels were usually bi-directional, modern diving watches are equipped with a unidirectional bezel.
- Bi-directional Rotating Bezel
- A bezel that can be rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used for mathematical calculations such as average speed or distance or for keeping track of elapsed time.
- Blued Screws
- Traditionally, high quality movements were fitted with screws which were artificially blued, more for decoration than function.
- Bracelet
- A metal band attached to the case. It is called integral if there is no apparent discontinuity between case and bracelet and the profile of attachments is similar to the first link.
- Buckle
- Usually matching the case, it attaches the two parts of the leather strap around the wrist.
- C.O.S.C.
- The Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers, an independent regulatory council that tests and certifies watch movements for chronometer status.
- Cotes de Geneve
- Surface decoration comprising an even parttern of parallel stripes, applied with a quickly ratating plastic or wooden peg. Also reffered to as Vagues de Geneve.
- Crown
- The crown, often referred to as the winding crown or winder is used for winding the watch in the case of a non-automatic, for setting the hands to the correct time and often for setting the date in the case of calendar equipped watches. On diving/sports models, the crown may be screw down whereby it screws onto a threaded tube which protrudes from the case of the watch. This often ensures superior water resistance.
- Crystal
- The crystal is the clear cover over the dial. Can be referred to as the glass. Various materials have been used over the years including acrylic, mineral (glass) and sapphire.
- Dial
- The dial, often referred to as the face is usually marked with numbers or batons to which the hands point in order for the wearer to tell the correct time. Dials themselves can be very simple, sometimes with no markers at all or extremely complex as in the case of pilots' chronographs. Dials can be decorated with patterns or in some cases with precious stones.
- Geneva Stripes
- A form of decoration in higher grade watch movements which look like stripes on the movement plates. These used to be applied by hand; in many cases in modern times, they are very simply applied by machine.
- Handwind/Handwound
- Simply describes a watch with a mechanical movement which needs to be wound by the wearer using the winding crown. This winds the mainspring up which then releases its energy to power the watch.
- Horology
- The science of time measurement.
- Jewels
- In the mechanical watch and some quartz watches, jewels (usually made from synthetic ruby) are used as bearings for those parts of the movement subject to constant motion. They are not valuable at all in the monetary sense but they are valuable in aiding the precise running of a watch over a long period and reducing wear. It is a fallacy that the more jewels the better the watch. A basic handwound mechanical usually comprises 17 jewels which in the main is the optimum count. Automatics may require more for the winding mechanism itself. In the 1960s there appeared to be a competition to see who could fit the most jewels in a watch movement, manufacturers proudly referred to 100 Jewels on the dial; opening the watch usually revealed that up to 80% of these jewels had no purpose and were simply mounted here and there on the movement to up the jewel count!
- Luminova
- Synthetic material that glows in the dark, used especially in diving watches.
- Movement
- Simply used to describe the workings or engine of a watch, be it mechanical or quartz. Often referred to as a calibre by manufacturers. The assembly of mechanisms and other internal elements of any timepiece.
- Sapphire Crystal
- Synthetic sapphire formed for use as the crystal of a watch. Extremely scratch resistant (9 on the Moh scale), a sapphire crystal is the material of choice for many watch collectors. The downsides are that sapphire can chip at the edges if they protrude and can shatter.
- Water Resistant
- Watches have varying degrees of water resistancy, ranging from WR30 Meters to some specialist watches having a capability of withstanding water to 10000 Meters. The usual for a diver's watch is 200m whilst 100m would be suitable for everyday swimming.
Made to prevent water from entering. Water-resistant case, watch-case whose joints are made to prevent moisture from entering.
To 30m, means the watch is splashproof
To 50m, means the watch will withstand swimming(not diving)
To 100m, means the watch will withstand snorkelling and diving into a pool (not scuba diving)
200m, means it is a professional diving watch, including scuba diving